Tail Position/Strobe: Aveo Posistrobe XP
Landing lights: 2 of the AeroLEDS 36LX and 2 of the 36HX (wig-wag version).
Wingtip Position/Strobe: Aveo Ultra Aurora
Pitot: Garmin GAP-26 Unregulated/Heated
To start to keep track of the electrical power needed I've created a spreadsheet (let me know if you'd like a copy):
I've also made a slight change to my part preparation by getting rid of the nasty toxic cleaner I was using. Even using the best filter mask, I could still smell that stuff. So, after some research and consultation with Cortec (Primer company) I selected the following totally non-toxic cleaner:
I plan to use it diluted 3 to 1 (as per the instructions). You can buy it here.
What made you decide to go with Cortec Primier and what's your preparation process prior to priming (Scotch Brite etc)?
ReplyDeleteSee my comment below.
DeleteI wanted a non-toxic, water-based primer and I found that Zenith (they use 6061-T6, same used by the Sling) recommended the Cortec, which is water-based. For cleaning I just wipe down with the Simple Green Extreme and no Scotch Brite is needed. I checked with Cortec on that.
ReplyDeleteThis comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteWhich of the Cortec Primers are you using?
ReplyDeleteYour preparation process it simple and time efficient. I like it very much, provided there aren't any compromises. If Cortec are advising no scotch brite, then they must be confident of excellent adhesion of their primer to the aluminium.
I use Cortec VpCI-373: http://www.cortecvci.com/Products/single.php?code=10219
DeleteNo compromises at all! As long as the aluminum has been cleaned as I described then that's all you have to do. Very efficient and as good as any other method.
The adhesion seems great to me. It leaves a nice mat finish on the metal.
Does the Simple Green remove any of the Part Numbers from each item?
ReplyDeleteI assume you're talking about the kit part numbers? Those are on a white label stuck on the plastic film encasing the part and that has to be removed before cleaning so the cleaner isn't involved.
DeleteDo you write the kit part numbers back on with Permanent marker and paint the clear Cortec straight over the top (obviously after you have cleaned it first)? That way you don't lose the ID of each part for when you're assembling it.
ReplyDeleteYes, if I don't think I'll easily be able to identify the part later then I mark it with a Sharpie after I've cleaned it and before priming. Since the primer is clear it's easy to see.
ReplyDelete