3.5 hrs. mostly on the brake line pass-throughs.

I was originally going to put a pass-through fixture on the fuselage skin for the brake lines, but that's really not necessary and just another place you can have leaks.  The next option is a simple grommet, but you can't just drill a hole and put a grommet because the pre-made stainless steel lines have AN3 connectors already installed that are bigger than the line itself (unless you use a extra large grommet and are OK with a hole in the fuselage, which I was not).  So, the answer is a split piece of aluminum to hold the grommet with a larger hole in the fuselage underneath for the connector to pass through.

In other news, I received my M8 and M10 x .75 nuts..... Neither fits the dimmer....  The only size I haven't tried is 3/8" - 16.  Why am I not hopeful....

My wake-up call this morning. 😊

The lines arrived this morning.  Nicely done!  They are 50" long.

I cut out pieces that would fit snugly in the existing outer skin cutouts.

Fits (50mm across).

My rough placement plan.  I didn't want the line pass-through to be in the middle because that exactly lines up with the floor inside and I didn't want an interference problem.

Have I mentioned I love step drill bits?  Sizing these holes to just fit the grommet.

Fits!

Pilot holes where the screws will pass through.  No need for precision here as all this won't be visible.

Now drill the holes through the fuselage to locate where the rivnuts and larger pass-through hole will go.

Used the step drill bit again to drill out the pass-through hole.  Fits through nicely.

Drilled and reamed out the holes for the rivnuts and installed them.

Drilled out the holes in the plate to fit the screws and did a test fit.

With all that done it was time to split the plate and do the install.  The grommet actually needs to be split too because you can't fit it over the connector.

And it's installed (both sides done)!  I put blue, medium strength, Loctite on the screws.  In case you're wondering why the upper screws aren't higher, it's because I wanted them close to where the grommet would be.

I have to decide if I want to ream out the channel a bit to fit the line as it's slightly bigger than 1/4".  In any case you do want to leave a bit of slack in the line to account for flexing of the gear.

.5 hr sanding rivet heads (no exciting pictures) and .5 hr working on my electrical connections spreadsheet, which you can see on the Avionics and Electrical Page.

Rotax has issued another update to their ASB with a narrower range of S/N's affected.  Mine still affected?  I don't have the engine (it's at Lockwood), so I don't know.

UPDATE: I've been notified by TAF USA that they believe my engine is no longer in the S/N range requiring the fix.  They're confirming and will let me know.  Good news!

Heard from JimP (thanks Jim!) where he got his wiring for firewall forward, so I ordered 10' each of red and black from here.  That should be more than enough.

Also, got some red and black heat shrink tubing here.  The 3/4" should fit snugly (ordered a quantity of 2 each color), but I also got some 1/2" (ordered a quantity of 1 each color) in case I have some smaller wires that need covering.

I've been researching what to use for sealing the firewall (any holes, gaps where wires come through, etc.) and came upon what Paul Dye (Editor in Chief of Kitplanes Magazine) recommends for this.

It is 3M Fire Barrier Silicone Sealant 2000+ and it's available on Amazon (and probably your local Home Depot or equivalent).

He says it's far superior to high-temp RTV and other options that people have used.

1 hr. misc.

OK, I tried 3/8" - 32 and -24 nuts and neither fit...  Thoughts?  It's getting annoying...

Instead of that I'll fit the fuel selector to the panel.

Lining up the large hole in the face plate with the hole in the panel and making sure the holes are horizontally lined up with the panel, I taped the face plate in place and drilled the holes.  You need to get the up/down right too because the holes have different spacing for the top and bottom.

Perfect.

I recently got my iPad Pro so I tried a test fit.  It fits, but I need to figure out the trick to putting it in with the lightning connector attached.  Here I've flipped the photo so you can see what it will look like.  BTW, the screen on the iPad Pro is amazing.  Foreflight looks fantastic on it.

3 hrs. misc.

Useful doc I found in my SteinAir panel build box.  I'll post this to the electrical and avionics page too.

Stringing new wiring for the sticks I'm using three 3-core Tefzel wiring.  I labeled them 1, 2 and 3 and this is my assignments.

I was going to use a connector at the bottom of the stick to connect the wiring, so I spent probably 2 hours working on that...  But, I wasn't happy with how it was going, so I decided to just directly wire it.  Grip wires are ready to go with the butt splices in place.

Did 3 at a time.  Before sliding the butt splice in place I wrapped the wires around each other using a lineman's splice.

All done!

And wrapped up...

I decided to put the rivnuts in the fuel selector and saw that M3 rivnuts fit perfectly in the fuel selector itself, but M3 screws are really too small.  M3 screw on the right and M4 on the left.  M4 is the better fit.

Looking through the small install manual for the fuel selector I saw this...  Full size template for drilling the holes - how convenient....

Yeah, well, except it's not....  It's smaller than actual size, so I won't be using that...

Time to ream out the holes to M4 rivnut size.

And all the M4 rivnuts are in. 😎

Now that fits very nicely.  I'll drill the holes in the dash tomorrow.