1 hr. trying to debug my fuel pump assembly leak...

Took off the hose - is this scratch the culprit??

Spent 10 minutes buffing that out and smoothing it all the way around...

Put it all back together with a new hose (slightly longer) and new clamps...  Still a strong leak, even trying the clamp in slightly different positions...

Is this a pinhole??  Let's put it back together and take a closer look (keeping the "pinhole" uncovered).

Well, let's take a closer look and try and pin down where the leak is...

Maybe I'll try a small brush to better ascertain where the leak is... But, I think it's that pinhole on the inlet seam of the pre-fabricated part that forms the lower part of the fuel pump assembly.  Time to get another one - hopefully from CA...

1 hr. setting up the fuel pump pressure tester and testing.

Bought this to make the connection from the tester to the hose.

The parts ready to be tightened up.  The part on the left of the connection I already had in my pneumatic parts cache...

All assembled....

I set it to 28 psi....

Though when you open the valve and try to readjust the input pressure and lock it in (push in the knob) it was difficult to keep it at exactly 28.  30 will do....  Seems to be holding the pressure...  ...But, when I applied soapy water (used the Extreme Simple Green and water) at all the junctions I found one spot that had a clear leak (input to the Aux pump).  Trying to readjust and tighten the screw clamp didn't work.  I think I'll try a new piece of hose tomorrow and see how that goes.  What if that doesn't work?  Maybe the metal nipple part has a scratch/gouge?  I'll examine closely tomorrow and see.  Stay tuned!

Quick half hour today.  Big family event this weekend, so I won't be able to get back to the plane until Sunday.

Starting to prep for testing the fuel pump.  For sealing the outlet of the pump I cut a length of hose and applied at least an inch of epoxy (a generous amount) inside.

Then clamped it down and applied some at the end too.

Need to go to the hardware store to figure out what to use to get from the pressure gauge outlet (right side) to the same hose size as what I used above.  I won't use the red hose that comes with the gauge for this use.

Got my silicone tape.😎

I had to slug Crosby because he was begging.  He took it like a champ.  OK, just kidding, he's a good boy!  He does beg sometimes though... But I don't slug him for it, I sometimes give in...  😁

I think I'll buy some of this for use in the engine compartment!

Here's a 6 pack in a variety of colors that I'm ordering.

With the help of someone on Rotax-Owner.com it was determined that the fuel pump is this model:

Pierburg Model E1F-7.21440.78 and the brochure for their line of pumps is here.

So, the verdict (matching the info from TAF SA tech support) is the pump should be tested to 1.85 bar, which is 26.8 psi (I don't think a little more would harm it as the Rotax docs mention 2 bar (29 psi) as the max reverse-bias pressure and a burst pressure of 5 bar (72.5 psi)).

Just spent a little time last night organizing for the engine work.  My task for the next few days is to come up with a detailed task list for the engine install.  Combining the info in the build manual, Rotax Installation Manual and Sling 4 Maintenance Manual I should be able to write it all out.

Spreading out all the Firewall Forward kit parts...

That light shouldn't be on...  Haven't even connected it to anything...  Time to contact EarthX...

3 hrs. on the engine install and 2 hrs. cleaning and starting to organize the shop.

Tried to capture how I threaded the strap in the back.  Need to make sure that when the straps are attached over the center of the engine, that nothing movable has pressure on it.

Ready to lift!

And it's up!  Removed the supports under the engine at this point.

Getting it into place.  I'm sure that hoist didn't think it was holding anything. 😁

 Pulled the plane up to meet the engine and kept adjusting the hoist height to get things lined up.

Getting bolted (M10-sized nuts are temporary since I need to wait for a cup washer before putting on the lock nuts and torquing).

And she hangs! 😁😁

The lower bolts go backward.

Lower nut side don't get washers (temporary M10 nut for now).

BobZ says that the position of this inlet will need to be changed and he suggested to put the hose on and clamp while it's off the engine.  Thanks Bob!

Me.

Time to do a deep clean of the shop and start organizing to prep for the next steps.

Starting to gather and organize the parts on various tables.