4.5 hrs. on the fuel system.

Loctite 577 applied to the fuel pressure sensor.

And 8mm nipple fitting tightened on (about 2 turns after finger tight).

Pushing down the clamp...

And crimping it.  Back and forth a little bit at a time to keep it evenly clamped.

Notice that the photo in the manual is incorrect with a couple of fuel directions.  I've corrected it on the manual page on the right.  The left is the diagram in the Rotax installation manual.

It's not mentioned in the manual, but this is how you T in the fuel pressure sensor.  I found the banjo bolt and hose nipple for doing this in the kit, but not the extra sealing washer required.  I'll have to order that.  Item #42 here.

I loosened the bolt where I'll put the new nipple connector and you can see the type of special washer required.

Starting on the fuel selector.  577 applied...

Tightening the fittings...

Video of tightening an NPT-type fitting.

When I did this I realized I was supposed to put in the small M3 allen screws in those holes you see (I should read instructions more closely...).  No big deal though as it was easy enough to put them in.

Putting in and tightening the screws...

I was a bit baffled by the "use a puncher..." instruction, but I followed it exactly.

 Marked...

After I did that I saw that the other, already installed screws, had a similar mark.  So, I assume these are essentially "torque seals" to check whether they've turned.  Could it be something else?

Gathering the parts for the gascolator...

And using 577 I installed the two fittings in that.  Here are the 3 parts I've done yesterday and today.  Making progress...

Should the intake manifold be so close to the engine mount?

Closer view.  Seems like it could rub...

I heard from the factory that I used the right size hoses for the fuel pumps (and actually using 6mm in the pumps doesn't make sense since the rest of the system is 8).  Confirming though...

2 hrs. replacing the battery and then discovering that I need to completely redo my fuel pump assembly....

To replace the battery I need to remove the GPS antenna above the battery.  No big deal.

Though even that is not enough...  I had to further loosen the top two screws of the battery holder.  With that it came out pretty easily.

New one in.  Looks like they moved the battery sense wire to the other side of the battery.  Wonder what else changed?  Better to have the newer design I guess.

See this package of hose labeled 1/4" (6mm)....  That label is wrong.  It is the 5/16" (8mm) hose.  They also had sent me a large-ish package of larger hose, which I assumed was the 5/16" hose.  Wrong, it's 12mm (for what I use, if any, I don't know).  My mistake for believing the label.... 😒  I only discovered this when today I opened the box of hoses I ordered from Aircraft Spruce (didn't feel like I had enough) and saw that they didn't match what I had.

So, the good news is that the one leak I had was probably due to the oversized hoses used...  The bad news of course is that I need to do this whole thing over again. 😬 UPDATE: This may not be true.  I heard from the factory that I used the right hose sizes (8 and 12).  I'm confirming since the manual doesn't indicate the right sizes to use.

3 hrs. finishing the cabin heat exhaust shroud and starting to look at the fuel system.

Tightened up and the extender that I riveted on works perfectly to fit the gap.

I don't know why but my two ends don't overlap enough to use the existing holes.  I can't imagine it was something I did because it's simply a matter of circumference.  It's tight around, but it doesn't overlap much.  My solution is further down this post...

Applied my fire shield sealant around the inlet to the cabin heat box.

Hose cut to length, pushed and twisted on and clamped.

Full view.  I'll tie it down as shown in the manual.

A bit hard to see in this pic, but instead of spending an hour trying to figure out how to use the existing holes, I drilled new holes and filled the old holes with fire shield sealant.  Also put on longer bolts with some washers and all-metal locknuts for the clamps at both ends of the shroud.  Note that you should not rivet on the inlet side at this time.  We'll get back to that after the bottom cowling is on.

Starting to look at the fuel system and finding I don't have some of the parts...  I'll chalk this up to being a very early customer (1st in the USA for the 4...), but I've had lots of mismatches between the inventory lists, my actual inventory and what's in the manual.  The fitting in the package is for larger hose than what's shown in the manual (and it's a different part number).  No, I don't have the part number shown in the manual anywhere else in my inventory...
BTW, if you're a more recent builder I'm assuming you'd have far less issues with your inventory than I've had.

The manual indicates that I have to cut off a section of the line to the carb and do some "silver soldering"...  No idea how to do that and not totally comfortable trusting my non-existent skills to the fuel system...  Hmm...

More missing or incorrect parts... Lots of fittings to 8mm hose, but no 6mm barb fittings.  And the part numbers don't match...

I don't know what "leaving equal outer ends" means.

The fittings that was packed in the with the fuel pressure sender doesn't fit the 8mm hose it's supposed to fit in.  Too small.

1.5 hrs. on the exhaust shroud.  Nearly done with it.

This is what I'll use to seal the shroud.

Sealant applied and doing the riveting...

Both ends done.

Putting on the outlet pipe.  Masking it off to apply the sealant.

Sealant...

And riveting...

The ones where it curves away from the plate you really have to push in order to rivet them since you're bending the plate.

Did some more masking and applied the sealant around the base to fill the holes.

And it's in place...

Seems like it would be easier to get the hose on now while the shroud is still movable.

I put the bracket and clamp in place to make sure there's no issue with the positioning of the shroud.  All's good.

Trying to tighten the bolts to get the shroud tight around the exhaust, but I think I'll get some clamps around the shroud as JimP did.  That'll work better.  The tie wraps you see there didn't do much.

Looks like TAF would like people to register for the Sling Ding party on Thursday of Oshkosh, so you can do that here.

Looks like they'll be making a new product announcement at the party.... :-D

Can't wait!  Hope to see you there!

1 hr. on the exhaust shroud (which seems to be taking too long...).

One last desperate attempt to see if I can get the clamps on without taking the bracket (and mount bolt) off...  If the clamp were more flexible, it would work... But, alas, it is too stiff, so off the bracket comes...

Bracket off and sliding on the partially cleco'ed assembly (you can't get it on if it's all cleco'ed).

That's the gap you're trying to fill.

The shroud seems to be a bit wide for the space available, but if the far end of the shroud in this photo rides on the weld, then it fits.

It was near impossible to try and position it while around the exhaust so I just did it on the bench.

Drilled out and ready to rivet.  I don't have a pic, but I riveted it after this photo.  You can see I did some more trimming to get the fit just right.  I'm sure I violated some edge rules with those rivet holes, but I'm not too concerned this will ever loosen with 4 rivets on this small piece.