1.5 hrs. on the tanks...
Do I look like Walter White from Breaking Bad? Mixing up some Class A sealant. Definitely more liquidy and easier to apply. But, it will drip, so use it sparingly.
Covering up the other side of the fuel sender port (or whatever it's called...). I also went around the rest of the tank and coated any areas that seemed like they could use a little more sealant. Before I did that I went all over the tank and cleaned with MEK - you don't want to put sealant over any dirt/grease/oil...
Completely coated the inside of the fuel cap.
Got my SafeAir pitot/AoA tubing/connectors kit! Just need to finish the right wing and start on the left before I'll get to play with this.
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Monday, August 31, 2015
Sunday, August 30, 2015
2.5 hrs. on the tanks. Riveting forming holes and installing the fuel cap. Tried installing the fuel drain...
Bob Zaleski suggested scuffing/sanding the fuel tank rings (especially the inner surface) and cap, so that it will be secure (thanks Bob!), because the only thing holding in the fuel cap itself is sealant. I used sandpaper and that was way more effective than just ScotchBrite. Then all the parts were thoroughly cleaned with MEK.
Mixing up yet another batch of sealant...
And we've begun! Messy!
All riveted. Big mess..
Even messier inside... I'll be covering much of this (and the rest of the tank's seams) with the Class A brush-able sealant. So, it will look much neater by the time I'm done.
The miracle of MEK for cleaning up sealant! Perfecto!! :-)
Hmmm.... The instructions say to use 6 x 4mm sealed rivets for the fuel drain, but that's wrong on 2 counts. 4mm doesn't fit in the holes (and they're 10mm long, not 6) and the 3.2 x 8 isn't long enough. I tried riveting in the 3.2 x 8's and it didn't grab the skin - just fell out into my hand... Grr...
Perhaps they need to be reamed out to fit the 4's?
Bob Zaleski suggested scuffing/sanding the fuel tank rings (especially the inner surface) and cap, so that it will be secure (thanks Bob!), because the only thing holding in the fuel cap itself is sealant. I used sandpaper and that was way more effective than just ScotchBrite. Then all the parts were thoroughly cleaned with MEK.
Mixing up yet another batch of sealant...
And we've begun! Messy!
All riveted. Big mess..
Even messier inside... I'll be covering much of this (and the rest of the tank's seams) with the Class A brush-able sealant. So, it will look much neater by the time I'm done.
The miracle of MEK for cleaning up sealant! Perfecto!! :-)
Hmmm.... The instructions say to use 6 x 4mm sealed rivets for the fuel drain, but that's wrong on 2 counts. 4mm doesn't fit in the holes (and they're 10mm long, not 6) and the 3.2 x 8 isn't long enough. I tried riveting in the 3.2 x 8's and it didn't grab the skin - just fell out into my hand... Grr...
Perhaps they need to be reamed out to fit the 4's?
Saturday, August 29, 2015
3 hrs. working on the fuel tanks.
OK, so we have to get from the fitting on the right to the large hole just under the painter's tape. BTW, I had drill that hole out to 11mm to accommodate the grommet that fits in there.
I would suggest ignoring the bend diagram in the instructions. It's easier to figure it out live. Just do follow the general instructions...
Here I am doing the first bend...
It was at this point that I realized why the instructions have you put the z-section bracket on here. You have to get around that bracket. I didn't put the bracket on and as a result I made my first bend too high. Ugh...
Bracket on...
Put the bracket on and had to strategize how I was going to get around the bracket now that my first bend was too high. I decide to try and flatten out that first bend as much as possible and take it from there.
For each bend I was going to make I put a small Sharpie mark where the bend was going to be and I put the mark on the side that was going to be the outside of the bend.
Keep in mind that with the tube bending tool shown above, the bend was really going to start after the tick mark. Getting there!
Next mark to make the final bend, which proved to be difficult to do with the tool I was using. Too tight quarters.
So, I used this tool, which is normally for flanges.
And we're getting through the hole now! Also put on Rib 106 to check the clearance (there's not much room) - and we're fine.
But, it's supposed to get through the hole perpendicularly, so I hand bent it some more.... and ended up crimping the tube a bit... I think it's fine as it's very slight - but it annoyed the hell out of me...
Put the grommet in and inserted the tube. It's supposed to stick out from the skin anywhere from 20mm to 25mm and it was about 27mm. I cut it down with my Dremel tool to 21mm. I'll do a better job at the bending procedure for the left tank. Funny thing - by the time you're an expert at a skill, you no longer need that skill... Tomorrow, lots of sealing! Fuel cap, fuel drain, forming holes and the sender.
OK, so we have to get from the fitting on the right to the large hole just under the painter's tape. BTW, I had drill that hole out to 11mm to accommodate the grommet that fits in there.
I would suggest ignoring the bend diagram in the instructions. It's easier to figure it out live. Just do follow the general instructions...
Here I am doing the first bend...
It was at this point that I realized why the instructions have you put the z-section bracket on here. You have to get around that bracket. I didn't put the bracket on and as a result I made my first bend too high. Ugh...
Bracket on...
Put the bracket on and had to strategize how I was going to get around the bracket now that my first bend was too high. I decide to try and flatten out that first bend as much as possible and take it from there.
For each bend I was going to make I put a small Sharpie mark where the bend was going to be and I put the mark on the side that was going to be the outside of the bend.
Keep in mind that with the tube bending tool shown above, the bend was really going to start after the tick mark. Getting there!
Next mark to make the final bend, which proved to be difficult to do with the tool I was using. Too tight quarters.
So, I used this tool, which is normally for flanges.
And we're getting through the hole now! Also put on Rib 106 to check the clearance (there's not much room) - and we're fine.
But, it's supposed to get through the hole perpendicularly, so I hand bent it some more.... and ended up crimping the tube a bit... I think it's fine as it's very slight - but it annoyed the hell out of me...
Put the grommet in and inserted the tube. It's supposed to stick out from the skin anywhere from 20mm to 25mm and it was about 27mm. I cut it down with my Dremel tool to 21mm. I'll do a better job at the bending procedure for the left tank. Funny thing - by the time you're an expert at a skill, you no longer need that skill... Tomorrow, lots of sealing! Fuel cap, fuel drain, forming holes and the sender.
Friday, August 28, 2015
2 hrs doing misc things related to the tanks and the wings.
Got my Class A (brush-able) sealant yesterday. This will be for general coverage inside the tank (anywhere it's not between metal surfaces).
Any time I have lots of things to do and can do them in various orders, it's time to make a list to serialize my tasks, so it doesn't seem overwhelming. After I took this pic I made several additions as I realized missed tasks.
Had to countersink the backside of the fuel cap flange so that the rivet will have something to grab, otherwise it would have been too deep of a hole for the rivet to grab.
I wasn't happy with the way the fuel cap was sitting, so I flipped over the inner ring and re-seated it more precisely. I slowly trimmed off the corner of the inner ring until the fuel cap sat flat when inserted.
Got my new rib 106's and deburred, cleaned and primed them. I really like my clean and prime method and the sprayer I use, because I can turn things around quickly. Quick setup and cleanup.
Got my Class A (brush-able) sealant yesterday. This will be for general coverage inside the tank (anywhere it's not between metal surfaces).
Any time I have lots of things to do and can do them in various orders, it's time to make a list to serialize my tasks, so it doesn't seem overwhelming. After I took this pic I made several additions as I realized missed tasks.
Had to countersink the backside of the fuel cap flange so that the rivet will have something to grab, otherwise it would have been too deep of a hole for the rivet to grab.
I wasn't happy with the way the fuel cap was sitting, so I flipped over the inner ring and re-seated it more precisely. I slowly trimmed off the corner of the inner ring until the fuel cap sat flat when inserted.
Got my new rib 106's and deburred, cleaned and primed them. I really like my clean and prime method and the sprayer I use, because I can turn things around quickly. Quick setup and cleanup.
Monday, August 24, 2015
2 hrs. working on the fuel cap and drain fittings. Also a second fit of the right tank back plate to the main spar.
Traveling for work for the next 3 days, so I'll be back at it on Friday.
The locking fuel cap doesn't fit in the parts as they come...
Time to grind them down. Here I have both the left and right upper parts to grind them together.
Used my Dremel with a mini ScotchBrite wheel.
The lower (inner) ring part needed a lot of grinding...
Voila! Perfect!
And on the tank.
Test fit of the back plate with the bolts into the nutplates. All lined up!
Traveling for work for the next 3 days, so I'll be back at it on Friday.
The locking fuel cap doesn't fit in the parts as they come...
Time to grind them down. Here I have both the left and right upper parts to grind them together.
Used my Dremel with a mini ScotchBrite wheel.
The lower (inner) ring part needed a lot of grinding...
Voila! Perfect!
And on the tank.
Test fit of the back plate with the bolts into the nutplates. All lined up!
Sunday, August 23, 2015
2 hrs. working on the tanks...
Marking the brackets and back plate so I'll know exactly where to put them when I put them back on.
And this is where the nutplates get installed.
The holes need to be countersunk so the rivets lay flat. Here's before.
One of the holes countersunk.
Magic!
And done! Perfect!
The backside.
Marking the brackets and back plate so I'll know exactly where to put them when I put them back on.
And this is where the nutplates get installed.
The holes need to be countersunk so the rivets lay flat. Here's before.
One of the holes countersunk.
Magic!
And done! Perfect!
The backside.
Saturday, August 22, 2015
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