Great flight yesterday!  Both the fuel pressure and flow sensors are working perfectly and no leaks at all.  Yay!...

But, of course, I saw a discussion on Facebook (Sling Airplane Enthusiasts group) yesterday about maximum MAP on takeoff (over the gate) and came to find that what I'm reading in my plane on takeoff is over the Rotax spec'ed maximum...  Why does it always seem that there's something that I need to look into...

The spec'ed maximum is 39.9 inches and I read 41.5.  When I was picking up the plane in Oklahoma nobody expressed any concern about the fact that it was flashing red - the implication being that it was normal when over the gate.  No it's not.  It shouldn't be much over 39.9, if at all.

I'm using the correct sensor, the G3X has the right sensor selected and it reads the correct atmospheric pressure when the engine is off.  So, I think it's a correct reading.

There are no TCU lights illuminated and apparently the TCU has it's own pressure sensor, so it doesn't seem to think there's an issue.  So, what's, what?

Was my TCU never set up properly down in Oklahoma?  That wouldn't be shocking...

Kind of disheartening....

Anyway, here's a video of one of my circuits around the pattern yesterday (you can actually see it flashing red during the takeoff and climbout).

Got the new fuel flow sensor assembly from Torrance and it's now fully installed along with the new fuel pressure sensor.  I'll be testing it tomorrow morning and will hopefully fly if all is well: No leaks and proper readings.

New assembly with new FT-60.  Looks good!  I just had to slide on the firesleeve and clamp them.

Assembling the banjo connections with the crush washers is a bit tricky so I put some paper towel under them so if any washers fell I wouldn't lose them (a royal pain..).

No dropped washers!

Solder butt connectors in place and some heat shield under it to keep the heat away from components that may have some fuel in them.  There's a green wire that comes out of the sensor, but that is not used.

All in and tightened down.  Excited to try it tomorrow.

I installed the new fuel pressure sensor and did voltage and continuity checks on all the wiring for the fuel pressure and flow sensors.  All checked out.

Installed the new version of the pressure sensor.  This version has a higher burst rating (doesn't really matter at these pressures) and supposedly is more accurate (also doesn't really matter).  I got this version because I was able to get a new one on eBay for much less than either version would otherwise cost.  I'll install this assembly once I have the fuel flow assembly.

Used this on the NPT threads of the sensor.

Just so it doesn't all seem negative, here's a picture of me practicing take-offs and landings at my home airport, 6B6, Minute Man Air Field, in Stow, MA.  I LOVE flying my Sling 4!

I don't know that I mentioned this, but on my last flight I noticed the fuel pressure spiking and going offline (the engine sounded perfectly fine), so I ordered a new fuel pressure sensor and it's coming this Friday, and hopefully it was a sensor problem and not anything else.

I also removed the entire fuel flow sensor assembly and re-doing it correctly (with a new sensor).

The only hard part to remove was the fuel line from the sensor to the right carb as it was basically impossible to get the wrenches in there to turn the outer nut.

Grinding down the wrenches though made it super easy.

I've been flying the plane, but long story short, I want to fix my fuel flow sensor since it's never worked since flying back from Oklahoma.

In the course of researching things, I found out that the way it was installed in Oklahoma is in violation of the installation instructions from the sensor manufacturer....

Basically, the install is all hard lines and that's no good because engine vibration of the IN and OUT connections could cause the sensor housing to crack - causing a fuel leak - in the engine compartment...  It's been fine and I don't see any signs of stress, but still, I want to fix it right and get the sensor working (I bought a new sensor).

See here (ignore the blue arrows):

It should have been done like Sling says - with rubber (or other flexible) hose. To isolate the sensor from vibration of the IN and OUT lines.

The thing is, I don't want to do it exactly like the manual says.  I don't want to have to silver solder the barb fittings to the steel fuel lines.  I'd like to use the compression fitting I see in the photo above, but convert that to a barb fitting.  Then to hose, then back to barb fitting into the sensor (and the same on the other side).

First, I don't know what that compression fitting is (I've never been a plumbing guy - I touch plumbing in my house and a flood is bound to result).  I have no idea how to figure out what to order.

It's also going to be tough to fit all this into that limited distance between the fuel regulator and carb.

I really want to get this done ASAP and as simple as possible.  Any suggestions?  Could really use some help here.

 Continued work on the Airmaster SB-18.

Ready for the changing of the o-ring.

Slipping on the new o-ring with a spatula.  Went on easily.

You can see the new one is thicker and it's a smaller diameter.

Re-installing the blades after I regreased the hub and blades

After tightening the retention nuts down (15nm) I measure about a 2mm gap, which seems bigger than before.  I've emailed Airmaster to confirm that this is OK before I tighten down the screws.