Pretty much the same picture as the other day, but more parts. I seem to be missing the Brake Master Cylinder :-(.
Monday, February 27, 2017
Saturday, February 25, 2017
Wednesday, February 22, 2017
I've been stuck on jury duty the last couple of days and have one more to go... So, not much energy for plane work unfortunately.
Meanwhile my final sub-kits are on their way from CA! Very exciting to be getting all the final sub-kits, including undercarriage, panel, canopy (I got it quick built in South Africa, which will save me a good amount of time), finishing and upholstery.
Also, starting a new job next week as a hardware design engineer at Intel, so that's also exciting.
Meanwhile my final sub-kits are on their way from CA! Very exciting to be getting all the final sub-kits, including undercarriage, panel, canopy (I got it quick built in South Africa, which will save me a good amount of time), finishing and upholstery.
Also, starting a new job next week as a hardware design engineer at Intel, so that's also exciting.
1 hr. yesterday doing some test fitting.
Seems to fit. Well, except related to the small piece which fits under the seat rail on the left side of this photo. The holes don't line up well, so I need to figure that out. Either the piece fits in front of the upright portion or behind it. Either way various different holes don't line up.
The cover over the linkage fits well.
Seems to fit. Well, except related to the small piece which fits under the seat rail on the left side of this photo. The holes don't line up well, so I need to figure that out. Either the piece fits in front of the upright portion or behind it. Either way various different holes don't line up.
The cover over the linkage fits well.
Monday, February 20, 2017
1.5 hrs. on the rudder spring rivnuts and soundproofing.
I was told (thanks BobZ!) that the M5 rivnuts can be very hard to pull, so he advised doing a test pull. Here's the test pull which wasn't too bad.
Hold drilled out to size and rivnut ready to go with Loctite 277 applied.
The first one I was able to pull by hand, but the second one was just beyond my ability to pull it by hand. So, I used a large C-clamp to do the work for me. Went easily.
Checking underneath for the proper amount of pull, and it looks good.
Both done!
Applied the soundproofing to the bottom of the luggage floor. Nice!
I'll probably apply more soundproofing to the cross brace part, but I'll wait on that until it's ready to be installed.
I was told (thanks BobZ!) that the M5 rivnuts can be very hard to pull, so he advised doing a test pull. Here's the test pull which wasn't too bad.
Hold drilled out to size and rivnut ready to go with Loctite 277 applied.
The first one I was able to pull by hand, but the second one was just beyond my ability to pull it by hand. So, I used a large C-clamp to do the work for me. Went easily.
Checking underneath for the proper amount of pull, and it looks good.
Both done!
Applied the soundproofing to the bottom of the luggage floor. Nice!
I'll probably apply more soundproofing to the cross brace part, but I'll wait on that until it's ready to be installed.
Saturday, February 18, 2017
0 hrs. walking around the garage and deciding I wasn't in the mood to work on it tonight... Tomorrow!
Well, I did look at this. According to other blogs M5 rivnuts need to be installed in the two holes here, which will hold the rudder tensioning springs (See Peter's blog here). The holes are much too small, so I want to confirm this is correct. The manuals I have make no mention of this assembly.
Well, I did look at this. According to other blogs M5 rivnuts need to be installed in the two holes here, which will hold the rudder tensioning springs (See Peter's blog here). The holes are much too small, so I want to confirm this is correct. The manuals I have make no mention of this assembly.
Friday, February 17, 2017
2 hrs. on rear bulkhead and luggage area.
Checking whether I can get to the holes to rivet the luggage floor to the rib upright. I can.
The manual doesn't consistently show the channel being used, so not sure if that stays. Also the cutout shown is greatly enlarged in the latest manual.
Top side of the riveted luggage floor.
Bottom side of the floor. Note that the manual does not show the two angle pieces (RF-ANG-019) shown with the arrows.
Marked off on the bulkhead where I wanted the soundproofing to go.
Marked up and ready for the soundproofing.
I incrementally cut the piece down until it fit within the lines. Not perfect, but good enough. It's stuck down already in this photo.
Riveted in place!
Backside view. Looks good!
Checking whether I can get to the holes to rivet the luggage floor to the rib upright. I can.
The manual doesn't consistently show the channel being used, so not sure if that stays. Also the cutout shown is greatly enlarged in the latest manual.
Top side of the riveted luggage floor.
Bottom side of the floor. Note that the manual does not show the two angle pieces (RF-ANG-019) shown with the arrows.
Marked off on the bulkhead where I wanted the soundproofing to go.
Marked up and ready for the soundproofing.
I incrementally cut the piece down until it fit within the lines. Not perfect, but good enough. It's stuck down already in this photo.
Riveted in place!
Backside view. Looks good!
Thursday, February 16, 2017
1.5 hrs. on the luggage compartment.
The bulkhead seems to fit.
Assembling the luggage floor.
Making sure I can install the fully assembled floor into the space - and I can.
The parachute box fits.
According to the instructions these holes have to get drilled out once the top rear skin is in place and the box is lined up with the skin opening.
Looks like a rivet that needs to be drilled out. See the next picture for the bigger picture.
Just cleco'ed this back in place.
The bulkhead seems to fit.
Assembling the luggage floor.
Making sure I can install the fully assembled floor into the space - and I can.
The parachute box fits.
According to the instructions these holes have to get drilled out once the top rear skin is in place and the box is lined up with the skin opening.
Looks like a rivet that needs to be drilled out. See the next picture for the bigger picture.
Just cleco'ed this back in place.
Tuesday, February 14, 2017
1.5 hrs. on rudder pedals and parachute tang/engine mount.
Got a service bulletin regarding the rear fuselage. Seems to only apply if Rib 601 is thinner material than .8mm (.64mm), but mine is a bit over .8mm, so it doesn't seem to apply.
Curiously my kit came with a plate that fits on that rib (though there aren't holes in the rib to rivet it), so I wonder if I should reinforce that rib to avoid future problems? Time to ask the factory....
Turns out the Sling 4 manual is wrong about the bolt installation for the rudder pedals (the Sling 2 manual is correct), so I reversed the bolts.
Yup, this is how it should work.
Had to do a good bit of reaming in order to get these bolts in. Even still it required a lot of wrenching and banging with a hammer to get it all the way in...
Sometimes you need to push at the same time as wrenching (as in the case of the aforementioned bolts), so I use a shallow socket in which I put a nut to make it even shallower. Now I can push and wrench at the same time.
Done! The other bolt will be done when I install the engine mount.
Found this video of EdgePerformance testing a 912 with their fuel injection mod (though I don't think it has the turbocharger.
Got a service bulletin regarding the rear fuselage. Seems to only apply if Rib 601 is thinner material than .8mm (.64mm), but mine is a bit over .8mm, so it doesn't seem to apply.
Curiously my kit came with a plate that fits on that rib (though there aren't holes in the rib to rivet it), so I wonder if I should reinforce that rib to avoid future problems? Time to ask the factory....
Turns out the Sling 4 manual is wrong about the bolt installation for the rudder pedals (the Sling 2 manual is correct), so I reversed the bolts.
Yup, this is how it should work.
Had to do a good bit of reaming in order to get these bolts in. Even still it required a lot of wrenching and banging with a hammer to get it all the way in...
Sometimes you need to push at the same time as wrenching (as in the case of the aforementioned bolts), so I use a shallow socket in which I put a nut to make it even shallower. Now I can push and wrench at the same time.
Done! The other bolt will be done when I install the engine mount.
Found this video of EdgePerformance testing a 912 with their fuel injection mod (though I don't think it has the turbocharger.
Monday, February 13, 2017
1 hr. misc.
Concern was expressed about the rudder cables rubbing up against the uprights, but we can see here that when they are fully installed and tight, they don't touch the uprights. Good quarter inch away. Still, I may put some edge grommet there to ensure no metal edges can rub the cables.
Not sure this is how it's supposed to work. Looks like it's the bolts that constrict the range of motion of the rudder pedals. Hmmm... I think it should be only the heavy metal bends that hit each other. Which means the bolts need to be even shorter. Too short though? Maybe the bolts heads need to go on that side? Checking the manual it looks like I did it right, but perhaps the manual is wrong...
Riveted CF-SKN-024 R & L to the rib uprights.
Checking the fit of these parts - looks good!
And the luggage floor fits right in. Just test fits for now.
Concern was expressed about the rudder cables rubbing up against the uprights, but we can see here that when they are fully installed and tight, they don't touch the uprights. Good quarter inch away. Still, I may put some edge grommet there to ensure no metal edges can rub the cables.
Not sure this is how it's supposed to work. Looks like it's the bolts that constrict the range of motion of the rudder pedals. Hmmm... I think it should be only the heavy metal bends that hit each other. Which means the bolts need to be even shorter. Too short though? Maybe the bolts heads need to go on that side? Checking the manual it looks like I did it right, but perhaps the manual is wrong...
Riveted CF-SKN-024 R & L to the rib uprights.
Checking the fit of these parts - looks good!
And the luggage floor fits right in. Just test fits for now.
Saturday, February 11, 2017
Thursday, February 9, 2017
2 hrs. finishing the wiring holes and routing the rudder cables.
Let's use the step drill bit to make those big holes (9.55mm) for the wiring on the left side. I've taped it off so I know where to stop.
One done. Nice and easy!
All done.
I think this part (CF-ANG-030) goes behind since it seems to fit better that way. I'll check other blogs to confirm.
Misc. interior skins cleco'ed in place.
Starting to route the rudder cables.
Coming up front.
Need to confirm, but I think this is how the cables attach to the crossing rib (or whatever it's called..).
Adjusting both ends until it was taut.
The manual specifies AN3-13A bolts for the connection to the rudder pedals, but those are too long. -12A is the right size. The nut is only loosely spun on in this photo. I'll tighten it tomorrow.
Let's use the step drill bit to make those big holes (9.55mm) for the wiring on the left side. I've taped it off so I know where to stop.
One done. Nice and easy!
All done.
I think this part (CF-ANG-030) goes behind since it seems to fit better that way. I'll check other blogs to confirm.
Misc. interior skins cleco'ed in place.
Starting to route the rudder cables.
Coming up front.
Need to confirm, but I think this is how the cables attach to the crossing rib (or whatever it's called..).
Adjusting both ends until it was taut.
The manual specifies AN3-13A bolts for the connection to the rudder pedals, but those are too long. -12A is the right size. The nut is only loosely spun on in this photo. I'll tighten it tomorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)