2 hrs. on some wiring and installing the tail light.

Installed the wire (3-wire shielded Tefzel) for the left rear headphone jack and then realized I need a lot (~60') more wire to complete the headphone and microphone wiring...  Time to put in an order with Aircraft Spruce...

Making the backing plate for the tail strobe/position light.

Measuring multiple times to make sure it will all line up...

Make sure it's lined up with the wind...

And the M3 rivnuts are in.

Backside.

I need to buy longer M3 screws (25mm), but this is what it will look like.

Checking the fit of the part in the rudder (which I haven't touched in nearly 3 years...).  I foresee mixing up epoxy filler in my very near future...

Excellent video from Stein on headset wiring which I will do today.

Here's a screen capture of the wiring diagram he shows in the video

And here's the mechanical installation diagram

So, I've found out that the factory, in the midst of testing the Rotax 915 on the Sling 4, is considering whether the parachute box needs to move back to the rearward location.  I've been told that the testing will take about 2 more weeks.

So, for now, I'm holding off on putting in the parachute.  If they do decide that it needs to move back I do have all the parts necessary for that position, so I have the option to do it.

Meanwhile, I'm rethinking all my options regarding the engine and parachute.  I do note that many builders are not installing a parachute at all, so I'm thinking about that possibility too.  Going with the 915 and parachute does add considerably to the cost of the project.

Just .5 hrs today doing some dimples (to match the ones on my face.  Haha).

Set to make a dimple.

For now the manual just indicates to dimple these.  But, I know there are many more dimples to be done that the manual doesn't mention.  I'll hold off on those until I'm ready to put the top skins on the rear fuselage.

.5 hrs. just playing with my new dimple die.

For the parachute box there are several rivet holes that need to be dimpled for countersunk rivets, so I needed a simple way to do that without buying any expensive new tools.

And there is just such a device!  This thing from Aircraft Tool Supply.  It cost as much to ship it as the device itself cost...

Put the female part on the, well, it's a nail...

Then the sheet and then the male part.

Put a manual rivet puller on and slowly pull just until the die is flat to the surface and you're done!

Nice!

Perfect!

3 hrs. on luggage floor and rear seat.

It was finally time to put the luggage floor in place!

A couple of holes that should not be riveted now are marked (they're also not drilled through).  These will be for the parachute box.

Staying organized!

And it's riveted in place!

 Put the rear seat in and..... I can sit in the plane!  First time!  :-)

The view.

Where the parachute box goes.  Not riveting just yet.

Nice!

3.5 hrs. on misc. things.

This rivet on the firewall has been bugging me for awhile...  It needed to be replaced because it didn't sit flat.  Eh, it took all of 30 seconds to remove it...

Now to make sure the new rivet sits flat I used my wedge thingy...

Much better!

Time to put the upholstery on the seats...  With the protective tape removed from the velcro I placed the seat and peeled it off with the seat side sticking.

Nice!

Here's what the bottom looks like with some of the tape removed.

 Time to put in the boots for the rudder pushrods.  I want to get this done before putting the interior skins on (you'll see what I mean lower down).

The manual says to put the boot material between the gasket and the firewall, but there's no way to do that without gluing the leather onto the gasket (IMHO).

So time to get the Barge glue out...  Put it on the gasket and the leather where they mate.

Difficult to get the cuts to exactly match up with the gasket holes, but close enough (I was going to just ream it out anyway).

Nice.

Time to rivet them to the firewall.

Done!

These are the skins I was talking about.  It would have been difficult (if not impossible) to put those gaskets in if the skins were already riveted.  The manual is not clear about this.

I also wanted to get soundproofing in there before committing the skins.

And it's all done!

I'm back from vacation and will be working on the plane again within a day.  Before then I want to extensively update my Task List so I know what I will be working on moving forward in much more detail.

On my vacation I got to meet fellow Sling builder and co-administrator of the Sling Builder's group on Facebook, Pascal Latten.

Here's us meeting in his really great workshop with our Sling Bling.

I added a link to the Panel Planning Page in the Other Stuff menu item above.  Easier to get to it that way.

I've also started to update several other pages in that group, including the firewall forward and painting pages.

2 hrs. re-ding the rudder springs, working on parachute box and searching for a part...

M5 washer in place and the hook part crimped a bit to wrap around the bolt better.

And back in place.  I'll leave the other end unconnected for now because you need to do that later when you're adjusting the rudder rigging.

One of the pictures in the manual I could see that this cutout of the parachute box has edge grommet, so I put it on mine.

The latest manual shows that I needed to cut this opening in the parachute box large and put on edge grommet.

Marked and ready for cutting with my...

...favorite snips, Andy Snips.  You can get them here: http://amzn.to/2wQGpd7

Cut and filed.

And edged with grommet.

Thinking about installing my luggage floor, I went to look for the small angle bracket that goes under the floor (one on each side)....  I'm pretty sure I had them on the left side of my workbench for several months, waiting to be used.  Went to look...  Gone.  I searched high and low, but they seem to have gotten up and walked away. :-(.