1.5 hrs on the pitch servo and 1.5 hrs general cleanup and organizing.
Pushrod off to move the connection on the pitch servo to the bottom hole.
Proved to be a bit difficult to get the bolt out. But, with a little shove from a screw driver it came out.
Turned out it was easier to tighten the bolt using a long extension on a ratchet than try and use the wrench on the other side (not much space). I was even able to properly torque it with the extension.
And it's done!
Trying to figure out the order of assembly with regards to the center console and its upholstery. Time is ask the factory for clarification.
The manual says the elevator pushrod gets put in through the rear, but I was hoping I could put it in through the front given how the fuselage is positioned in my garage. Well, it's possible! Assuming the side skin is off that is.
A little jiggling around and it went all the way back. Nice! I understand some grease needs to be applied to the pushrod where it passes through the plastic part a few ribs back (It makes a lot of noise with no grease...).
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Monday, May 29, 2017
Saturday, May 27, 2017
2 hrs. cleaning up the garage. It had gotten too cluttered with two big boxes (canopy and firewall forward), so it was time to empty those boxes and do a general clean up. I become less efficient when my workspace is too busy, disorganized and messy.
Much better. Canopy, etc. tucked away.
This side still needs a bit or work, but much better.
Much better. Canopy, etc. tucked away.
This side still needs a bit or work, but much better.
Friday, May 26, 2017
1 hr. installing the ELT.
All 10 holes drilled out, reamed and deburred to 4mm.
Traced around the tray to remove the soundproofing. A bit tedious to remove that material since it's very strongly bonded to the skin.
In place and ready for drilling through.
First two cleco'ed so the rest are easy.
Lots of aluminum debris when you drill and ream! Cleaned it up with duct tape.
Don't forget to put the strap in place before riveting!
Was able to rivet one side. The other side is inaccessible right now because of the bench. I'll rivet those later.
And it's in! Nice and solid.
All 10 holes drilled out, reamed and deburred to 4mm.
Traced around the tray to remove the soundproofing. A bit tedious to remove that material since it's very strongly bonded to the skin.
In place and ready for drilling through.
First two cleco'ed so the rest are easy.
Lots of aluminum debris when you drill and ream! Cleaned it up with duct tape.
Don't forget to put the strap in place before riveting!
Was able to rivet one side. The other side is inaccessible right now because of the bench. I'll rivet those later.
And it's in! Nice and solid.
Wednesday, May 24, 2017
1.5 hours contemplating....
Close up of the pitch servo. The factory says this should be connected on the bottom hole and not the 2nd from the bottom like you see here. I wonder if the instructions changed because I don't think I would have done this unless the instructions said it.
Test fit of the AN7 bolts that will be used to connect the wings. Snug, but they fit :-). I think I'll trim the bottom floor skin back a bit though because it makes it a bit difficult to put most of the bottom bolts in straight.
I was expecting these to be near impossible to put in, but it fits just perfectly.
Contemplating the mounting of the ELT tray. Those holes in the bottom are 4.8mm sized and there's no way the tails of those huge rivets will fit under the ELT. Need a different plan...
Here's how huge a 4.8mm rivet tail is...
Now to locate it. The factory says under the rear seat on the right side, but where exactly...
I need to be able to slide the ELT in and out, so you need to think it through...
I can slide it in from the back if it's positioned toward the front, but....
There are connectors there they you need to be able to plug things into... So the forward position doesn't work.
Looks like moving it back will work. I can slide it in and out from the front.
Since the existing holes won't work I will drill 10 new holes along the sides where there's more space under the ELT. That's for tomorrow...
Close up of the pitch servo. The factory says this should be connected on the bottom hole and not the 2nd from the bottom like you see here. I wonder if the instructions changed because I don't think I would have done this unless the instructions said it.
Test fit of the AN7 bolts that will be used to connect the wings. Snug, but they fit :-). I think I'll trim the bottom floor skin back a bit though because it makes it a bit difficult to put most of the bottom bolts in straight.
I was expecting these to be near impossible to put in, but it fits just perfectly.
Contemplating the mounting of the ELT tray. Those holes in the bottom are 4.8mm sized and there's no way the tails of those huge rivets will fit under the ELT. Need a different plan...
Here's how huge a 4.8mm rivet tail is...
Now to locate it. The factory says under the rear seat on the right side, but where exactly...
I need to be able to slide the ELT in and out, so you need to think it through...
I can slide it in from the back if it's positioned toward the front, but....
There are connectors there they you need to be able to plug things into... So the forward position doesn't work.
Looks like moving it back will work. I can slide it in and out from the front.
Since the existing holes won't work I will drill 10 new holes along the sides where there's more space under the ELT. That's for tomorrow...
Saturday, May 20, 2017
1.5 hrs. on the rear seat upholstery and throttle assembly.
There was a bad stitch on the rear seat back upholstery that was preventing it from sliding over the seat back, so I carefully cut that stitch and it slid over just fine.
The back.
My brake lever wasn't able to be pulled all the way back so I contacted the factory and they indicated that the workers there trim the plunger part done about 3mm. So, I removed the brake master cylinder from the assembly to do this.
Ready to be cut... I did more like 4mm since it seemed to have plenty of threads to spare and I didn't want to have to do this again.
Making some sparks!
A test fit proved it worked perfectly, so it was time to reassemble. Here I'm using my attach the washers to a piece of painter's tape trick to get the washers back in place. Tight fit!
And it's done! Full motion achieved.
I like the look of this!
There was a bad stitch on the rear seat back upholstery that was preventing it from sliding over the seat back, so I carefully cut that stitch and it slid over just fine.
The back.
My brake lever wasn't able to be pulled all the way back so I contacted the factory and they indicated that the workers there trim the plunger part done about 3mm. So, I removed the brake master cylinder from the assembly to do this.
Ready to be cut... I did more like 4mm since it seemed to have plenty of threads to spare and I didn't want to have to do this again.
Making some sparks!
A test fit proved it worked perfectly, so it was time to reassemble. Here I'm using my attach the washers to a piece of painter's tape trick to get the washers back in place. Tight fit!
And it's done! Full motion achieved.
I like the look of this!
Friday, May 19, 2017
1 hr. working on the parking brake valve.
The parking brake valve assembly. I discovered a while ago that the threads don't match and it seems this is a common problem. So, fellow builder BobZ sent me the required die to re-thread the male threads. I've been apprehensive about doing it since I've never done it before.
Getting it started is a bit tricky as you need to push down a bit while turning it until it really catches.
Once it's definitely caught then I used my socket wrench (13/16") to go the rest of the way.
It just grinds the metal all the way down and voila you have new threads! Easier than I thought.
A test fit confirms it's perfect.
I was advised to put a couple of turns of plumbers tape around it to ensure a tight seal - keeping it away from the end where it could get into the fluid.
You need to make sure to put on the connecting brackets before putting them on...
And it's done!
Top view with the handle back in place.
The parking brake valve assembly. I discovered a while ago that the threads don't match and it seems this is a common problem. So, fellow builder BobZ sent me the required die to re-thread the male threads. I've been apprehensive about doing it since I've never done it before.
Getting it started is a bit tricky as you need to push down a bit while turning it until it really catches.
Once it's definitely caught then I used my socket wrench (13/16") to go the rest of the way.
It just grinds the metal all the way down and voila you have new threads! Easier than I thought.
A test fit confirms it's perfect.
I was advised to put a couple of turns of plumbers tape around it to ensure a tight seal - keeping it away from the end where it could get into the fluid.
You need to make sure to put on the connecting brackets before putting them on...
And it's done!
Top view with the handle back in place.
Tuesday, May 16, 2017
2 hrs. on the static port and Ellen finishing her seat.
Let it cure for 2 days and it is solidly attached. No tugging would budge it.
My handy tool for cutting soft tubing such as static lines.
All hooked up. My test was pretty simple: I had my wife and daughter put their fingers on the ports and there was no way I could blow into the other end. Fingers removed and I could blow. :-)
Cross rear seat support and luggage floor support riveted in.
CF-ANG-030 riveted in on each side.
Ellen finishing the seat bottom slide mechanism.
Done.
Proudly showing off her completed seat.
Let it cure for 2 days and it is solidly attached. No tugging would budge it.
My handy tool for cutting soft tubing such as static lines.
All hooked up. My test was pretty simple: I had my wife and daughter put their fingers on the ports and there was no way I could blow into the other end. Fingers removed and I could blow. :-)
Cross rear seat support and luggage floor support riveted in.
CF-ANG-030 riveted in on each side.
Ellen finishing the seat bottom slide mechanism.
Done.
Proudly showing off her completed seat.
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